Day 4 : Them Darn Ferries

I departed Salem feeling better, especially in my right knee - it was feeling completely pain free. My left knee, on the other hand, was still quite tender with pain being felt on each pedal down stroke. I had planned on an easy day, and given the circumstance there wasn't much choice in the matter.

I pulled out my map and picked a route out of Salem that looked free from traffic. It was a beautiful country road that reminded me of the Napa wine country - lush rolling hills dotted with beautiful estate homes and ranches. I figured I could join the TransAm route later as long as I was headed in the right direction - what was the harm?

[Below: 'Friendly neighbors']

I rode for 10 plus miles and hardly saw any traffic. I couldn't believe this road was so untraveled, a bicyclist dream. I came to a sign in the road and the "road less traveled" made perfect sense now. There was a ferry crossing on the river and Mondays they were closed! Oh man, that puts a major monkey wrench in my plan! I pulled out my maps and recalculated a new route - no chance to rejoin the Transam today though. Oh well.

After back tracking a bit and cussing myself out for being so cute with the maps, I found a road paralleling the TransAm route - 20 miles east. It was through farm country, very rural and completely different in feel than the liberal tree huggers back in Salem.

I rode until near sundown where I decided I better get serious about a place to hang my hat for the day. I was in the middle of nowhere, (Okay, Halsey is technically a town - population 500) and riding into Eugene some 30 miles away wasn't doable. I decided to stop at a little bar and grill that had a "new management" sign hanging outside on the wall. I figured they could point me to a park where I could set up my tent, regroup, and get some rest.

Once inside, everyone started to ask me about my trip and offering all different opinions of how to cross the Cascade mountain range. One lady suggested I go the scenic but very steep route, another gentleman said I'd be crazy to do that since there are no shoulders and the grade makes it tough even for passenger cars. There wasn't a person in the place without an opinion!

After concluding that I was completely confused, a nice gentleman and his wife, Kelly and Melody Karpins, asked me if I'd care to set up camp in their yard! Great, I thought, especially since by then it was totally dark.

I followed them on my bike a few blocks away where they directed me to their spacious back yard. I began pulling my gear out, and their 17-year old son, soon to be an Eagle scout, introduced himself: "Hey I'm Charlie, can I help you set up? "Sure", I replied, happy to have some young muscle on my side.

After we set up my camp, Charlie invited me in his house to feast on homemade chile rellenos with rice and beans. Wow, talk about good grub! Charlie tells me his dad is the best cook around, and he has been cooking and canning food all his life, starting at age three. I concur with Charlie’s appraisal of Kelly's culinary prowess – and his homemade hot sauce was no doubt the finest I've had anywhere.

The Karpins were great hosts and they were impressed with my dedication to my cause. I was impressed with their family, and their dog (who knows its right paw from its left). Thanks for the wonderful hospitality - you made my day!

[Above: 'Fresh Oregon cherries']

I awoke the next morning, packed up and took Kelly up on his offer of free cherries. All I had to do is climb under the tree net and pick them. "Yum, nothing better than fresh fruit after a long day on the bike," I thought. Charlie saw me off and before I left we took a picture together. He also told me he had decided to join me in not shaving for the duration of my trip - Forrest Gump would be proud!

[Below: 'Beard check']